Exploring Rum’s Golden Side

This was one of a series for my column at www.Rogerspark.com 

Close your eyes. Listen to the palm fronds swishing in the gentle breeze, punctuated by the occasional call of a nearby seagull. Sink your toes into the toasty sand and taste the faint trace of salt dancing in the air over the turquoise waters. If you’re like me, dear neighbors, all you need is a sailboat to get to your happy place, but for now, we’re going to be perched on a Caribbean beach about to enjoy one the area’s signature delights. You may be surprised that we’re not being served rum punch, typically made with light rum and fruit juices, but today our focus is going to be on the golden and premium varieties, the less widely known but richly complex branch of the rum family.

Golden rums are medium bodied and are often aged in wooden barrels. They range from deep gold to burnt amber and will tempt you with their fruity, spicy and sometimes even floral aromas. Let’s try one! Mount Gay, traditionally known as the world’s oldest rum producer, has been mixing magic on Barbados since at least 1703. Today on our island, they’re serving Mount Gay’s Eclipse Rum. We’ll stir in some cola, but some people like soda water. Take a healthy sip, letting the liquid gold bathe your entire tongue before you swallow. What did you taste? I got a hint of vanilla and smoke and a zing of spice. This rum was aged in white oak barrels from Kentucky that had been used for aging bourbon, then charred. What I like best about golden rums are their full flavors, which cola brings out nicely, but avoid using the diet variety, I think they interfere with the taste. If you like Crown Royal and Coke, you’ll probably enjoy this cocktail as well.

Rums have no universal style classification, so they are usually broken down by color. You may be more familiar with light (white, silver) rums that are generally sweet and spiced rums like Captain Morgan’s that are used as a base for cocktails. Unlike other spirits such as Cognac or Scotch, rum has no standard production method; the countries that make it each have their own laws and traditions.

Columbus brought sugar cane to the Americas in the late 1400s and Europeans were eager to harvest this coveted good for trade. The cane juice was boiled to form crystals and after those were extracted, a thick black liquid, molasses, remained. It was discovered that when that liquid was left out in the sun and mixed with water that it morphed into a spirit. The spirit was then distilled and aged, most often in oak, though some light rums today spend time in stainless steel. (Most rums are made with molasses, but some manufacturers such as those in the French West Indies make it from straight sugar cane juice.)

The history of rum is as colorful as Chicago politics. The first rum distillery in the U.S. was built in 1664 on what is now Staten Island and rum manufacturing became a booming business for colonial New England. The beverage was so popular that George Washington was adamant that a barrel of Barbados rum be served at his 1789 inauguration! Speaking of politics, rum was often used as a way to get votes. The outcomes of many elections rested on how much rum the candidates provided to the constituency. Hmm. (Would we be better able to stomach this parking meter price increase if Mayor Daly had issued copious amounts of rum to each neighborhood before making that sale?) One more fun fact. The British Navy issued a daily ration or “tot” of rum to its sailors, a centuries old practice that lasted until 1970.

Okay, let’s get back to what’s in the glass. Another way to explore rum’s character is to unwind with a premium rum. Sipping rums can have aromas of caramel and toast and hints of mellow spices. These spirits are smooth and complex and should be served neat (my favorite way), over ice or with the tiniest splash of water. You don’t want to dilute these beauties. David Meihaus of the Morseland Café has been introducing his customers to premium rums for the past five years and told me that “ once a rum ages past 10 years it goes to that same place that Armagnacs and Bourbons do, they develop a nice round quality.”

So, now that we’ve brought the story closer to home, I have a suggestion. On the next warm, balmy day (it’s coming) take a stroll to the beach at Loyola Park and gaze out at the lake. Soften your eyes and see if the waters don’t take on a jewel-like hue. Cock your ear to the breeze and hear the faint tinkling of steel drums. Meander back home, pour your favorite rum cocktail and be happy that we have our own slice of paradise right here.

Misunderstood Merlot

This was one of a series for my column at http://www.rogerspark.com/ 

She’s always been a beauty. Voluptuous with a juicy personality, yet approachable and warm. No hard edges here. It’s no wonder she was the most popular girl in her class for so many years. This also made her vulnerable. Ah yes, dear neighbors, she is a people pleaser and her willingness to produce big watered down her charm.

Lady Merlot has quite a noble pedigree. She is one of the classic Bordeaux blending grapes along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
In fact, she and Cab have quite a symbiotic relationship - she softens him and smoothes out the rough spots in his lean and tannic personality and he provides her fleshiness with structure and backbone. I can almost hear them murmuring “you complete me.”

But she can create some pretty luscious wines all on her own, thank you very much. Easy to drink and appreciate, with a medium body and low levels of tannin, she offers ripe, juicy fruit that can taste like red berries, black cherry or plum and may leave you with a hint of chocolate, mint, vanilla or spice before she signs off with a silky finish. She’s also friendly with many of your favorite foods and pairs well with lamb, red meat, tomato–sauced pastas, or even chicken. (I enjoy her on her own as a cocktail.) Not bad for a wine that has suffered some unfortunate setbacks.
What do I mean by misunderstood? Well, it started before the main character in the movie Sideways nearly spit his disdain for Merlot. It was a cheap shot, but sadly, it rang true for some wine drinkers and sent up red flags for others. Why? Because Merlot’s popularity had turned against her. In the late 1980’s and 90’s, Americans, many new to drinking red wines, lapped up Merlot since it was palate friendly and didn’t barrage them with too much tannin before they were ready. This increase in demand drove an explosion of planting, even in areas that were not conducive to the grape. The central valley in California is a good example where the climate is too warm and the soils too fertile for Merlot. She can produce overly generous yields and that dilutes her flavor and quality.

Though there has always been top notch Merlot to be found, the good news is that the harsh beam of media attention forced growers to re-evaluate their product and today quality overall has improved. Domestically, Napa, Sonoma, Carneros and Santa Barbara are highly regarded Merlot producing regions in California and in Washington both the Yakima and Columbia valleys have crafted many winners. Of course, you can always enjoy a Merlot from Bordeaux, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa and a host of other countries.

I asked Jamie Evans, of Taste Food and Wine on Jarvis, how he thinks consumers should approach buying Merlot. He feels that it’s less about the area where the grapes were grown, but more about the characteristics that you’ like to find in your wine. That’s why it’s always good to ask questions when you shop. A couple of options he suggests trying are Rim Rock Merlot, 2005, from the Yakima Valley, which is a straight Merlot, and Chateau Crabitan- Bellevue, Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, 2006, a Merlot blend. Both are reasonably priced.

So, if it’s been too long since you’ve enjoyed her company, make some plans to rekindle your relationship with Merlot. You know you’ve missed her. Remember? She had you at hello.