Monday, March 15, 2010

Goldilocks was on to something…

Originially published on 2/5/10 at Rogerspark.com, A Good Pour


Okay, maybe serving time/ temperature is not the sexiest topic, but hang in here with me, dear neighbors, because boy can it make a difference in your wine tasting experience.

I was in the mood for a wine comparison the other night so David and I opened a Rioja and a Chianti Classico. Perhaps because we were getting a bit hungry for dinner, we began our note taking shortly after I opened the bottles. Now I know that ideally, wine should be given the chance to breathe, but like other habits you know are good for you, ( flossing, anyone?) I don’t do it every time.

Here’s what happened. Both wines were true to their varietal in style. The Rioja had mild aromas of cherry, raspberry and oak, the Chianti Classico shared the cherry and added rose petal, but nothing leapt out of the glass. The latter, not surprisingly, was more acidic, but with less body, highlighting the gentler, smoother mouth feel of the Rioja. Okay, that’s nice, two pleasant wines, true to type. Ho hum. We went through the tasting protocol, again. Were we missing something? Let’s sip some more water, cleanse our palates, we’re not getting what we should be from these wines. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away, but I thought they’d be more nuanced, more cohesive. Heck, I just thought they’d be better.

So, we left the wine in the glasses and went to start dinner. A half hour later we returned to pick one to have with the meal and tried them both again. Wow. The difference was startling. Both wines had clearly enjoyed their time basking languidly in the glass, just waiting for us to return and find them in their glory. I swear they were smirking. All the individual, formerly clunky notes we’d been carefully describing were now all harmonizing beautifully together, creating a singular expression of the varietals. They didn’t need to be formally decanted, they just needed to be poured into a glass, swirled a bit and left to do their magic.

Though theoretically, decanting is really only needed for red wines with bigger tannins, I was reminded once again that a bit of time out of the bottle does wonders for whatever is inside. It’s like those of here on the Third Coast in February, getting out of our confines helps us to blossom, too.

Saying that wine needs to breathe may sound pretentious, but it’s true. It’s all about getting the wine aerated so that it can unlock its full spectrum of aromas and flavors. But please note, simply opening the bottle won’t do the trick, the wine should at least be poured into a glass. The surface area of an opened bottle isn’t wide enough to get the party started.
So what about serving temperature? Tradition says that red wines are best served at room temperature, but that idea was born before room temperatures averaged around 70 degrees. A decent medium is 50 degrees, so if the bottle isn’t in a cellar, just let it chill in your refrigerator for 15-20 minutes before serving. White wines need some special handling here as well. They are frequently served way too cold. Many restaurants are guilty of this and it’s a shame because patrons can go away thinking that a wine was so-so or just plain bad when really, it was simply hunched up against the deep chill, its personality in lock down. 45°F is a good baseline temperature for white wines. So, practically speaking, if your wine is in the frig, take it out about a half hour before you want to drink it or if it’s at room temperature, pop it in the freezer for 30 minutes.

No matter what your level of investment, you want your wine to be enjoyed at its best. So this Valentine’s Day, as you try to stay warm and look cool, take a lesson from Goldilocks and shine that same attention to detail on your vino as well. Your sweetheart will thank you.

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