This was one of a series for my column at http://www.rogerspark.com/
She’s always been a beauty. Voluptuous with a juicy personality, yet approachable and warm. No hard edges here. It’s no wonder she was the most popular girl in her class for so many years. This also made her vulnerable. Ah yes, dear neighbors, she is a people pleaser and her willingness to produce big watered down her charm.
Lady Merlot has quite a noble pedigree. She is one of the classic Bordeaux blending grapes along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
In fact, she and Cab have quite a symbiotic relationship - she softens him and smoothes out the rough spots in his lean and tannic personality and he provides her fleshiness with structure and backbone. I can almost hear them murmuring “you complete me.”
But she can create some pretty luscious wines all on her own, thank you very much. Easy to drink and appreciate, with a medium body and low levels of tannin, she offers ripe, juicy fruit that can taste like red berries, black cherry or plum and may leave you with a hint of chocolate, mint, vanilla or spice before she signs off with a silky finish. She’s also friendly with many of your favorite foods and pairs well with lamb, red meat, tomato–sauced pastas, or even chicken. (I enjoy her on her own as a cocktail.) Not bad for a wine that has suffered some unfortunate setbacks.
What do I mean by misunderstood? Well, it started before the main character in the movie Sideways nearly spit his disdain for Merlot. It was a cheap shot, but sadly, it rang true for some wine drinkers and sent up red flags for others. Why? Because Merlot’s popularity had turned against her. In the late 1980’s and 90’s, Americans, many new to drinking red wines, lapped up Merlot since it was palate friendly and didn’t barrage them with too much tannin before they were ready. This increase in demand drove an explosion of planting, even in areas that were not conducive to the grape. The central valley in California is a good example where the climate is too warm and the soils too fertile for Merlot. She can produce overly generous yields and that dilutes her flavor and quality.
Though there has always been top notch Merlot to be found, the good news is that the harsh beam of media attention forced growers to re-evaluate their product and today quality overall has improved. Domestically, Napa, Sonoma, Carneros and Santa Barbara are highly regarded Merlot producing regions in California and in Washington both the Yakima and Columbia valleys have crafted many winners. Of course, you can always enjoy a Merlot from Bordeaux, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa and a host of other countries.
I asked Jamie Evans, of Taste Food and Wine on Jarvis, how he thinks consumers should approach buying Merlot. He feels that it’s less about the area where the grapes were grown, but more about the characteristics that you’ like to find in your wine. That’s why it’s always good to ask questions when you shop. A couple of options he suggests trying are Rim Rock Merlot, 2005, from the Yakima Valley, which is a straight Merlot, and Chateau Crabitan- Bellevue, Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, 2006, a Merlot blend. Both are reasonably priced.
So, if it’s been too long since you’ve enjoyed her company, make some plans to rekindle your relationship with Merlot. You know you’ve missed her. Remember? She had you at hello.
