This was my first wine/spirits column for http://www.rogerspark.com/
posted on February 8, 2009
Warm up your Valentine with Armagnac
It’s a safe bet to say that those of us nestled up along Chicago’s coastline are getting a bit weary of the sci-fi like temperatures encasing us here on Planet Rogers Park. Even regaling out-of-towners with the record breakers is getting old. There’s only so many times my mother-in-law in Phoenix is going to be impressed with my pluckiness at venturing out when it’s -10 degrees.
So, besides piling on another layer (you sexy thing) what do we do to thaw out for Valentine’s Day? How about indulging the senses in a soul warming Armagnac?
France’s oldest spirit has a history nearly as colorful as Rogers Park’s, and much like the success of our community has been based on a rich blending of cultures and traditions, so it is with Armagnac. The Romans were responsible for bringing the vine culture to the Armagnac region in southwest France. Arabs arrived with the still and the Celts showed up with the barrels. But it was the Dutch that distilled the area’s wines in order to bypass a wine embargo. Thus began the brandy making process.
Armagnac can be distilled from folle blanche, ugni blanc and colombard, all white wine grapes. After distillation, it is aged in black oak casks. Unlike its better known cousin, Cognac, it’s only distilled once, allowing more flavoring elements to be retained in the alcohol. This also gives it more time in oak, which, many believe, infuses this brandy with more richness and aromatics. Unlike wine, Armagnac stops aging once it’s bottled so it will neither improve with time or go bad when exposed to oxygen, but it’s wise to store a bottle straight up, since prolonged cork contact will spoil brandy.
Okay, okay, it has a cool history and now we know how it’s made, but let’s get to the good part, how does it taste? Here, dear neighbors, is where I want you to slow down. We can’t soak up the glow of Armagnac if we’re rushing. (We all do enough of that anyway!) The first thing you’ll want to do is forgo the traditional brandy snifter. This was a bit disappointing for me to learn because I like the feel of those glasses, but it’s better to enjoy this spirit in a tulip shaped glass. I recently used a port glass, but a champagne flute is an even better way to concentrate the aromas.
Your senses will heat up the minute you start pouring. The liquid is a warm amber color which can range from honey gold to nearly mahogany, depending on how long it’s been aged. (Older Armagnac is darker.) Now it’s time to involve your nose, but, unlike wine, you don’t want to stick it into the glass and take a big sniff or the alcohol esters will burn your nasal passages. Hold the glass at chest height for a minute or two before you bring it to chin level. You’ll immediately be wrapped up in an array of cozy scents. You might detect toffee, pepper, rose, vanilla, nougat, chocolate, dried fruit, butterscotch, or roasted nuts.
Ready for a taste? Make the most of it by rolling the sip around in your mouth, coating your tongue and cheeks and holding it there a moment. Breathe in and savor. Now that shook the chill off, didn’t it? But that’s just the beginning of your exploration. As the brandy warms and opens in your glass, you’ll be treated to a changing palette of tastes as the evening progresses. If you’re lucky enough to have a fireplace, you should be sitting by it with your Valentine, nibbling dark chocolate. If not, light a bunch of candles, punch up some blood stirring music and you should forget all about the crunchy snowdrifts and menacing icicles that strive to remind us that it’s cold outside. It may be, but it’s toasty in here.Most Armagnac is a blend of vintages and the label will indicate the age of the youngest wine. Here are some label notes: VS means that it’s aged at least two years in cask, VSOP or Reserve, at least 5 years, XO or Napoleon, 6 years, Hors d’Age, 10 years or more.
Friday, March 25, 2011
Monday, February 21, 2011
An old flame warms me up
You can’t quite remember why you broke up in the first place. There was never any drama, nothing gossip worthy happened, no neighbors were disturbed when you parted ways. The relationship ran its course and you needed a change. So it was with me and big oaky chardonnays. Sure, it was rich, creamy and comforting, but my taste buds began to crave the cleaner, more fruit driven chardonnays with little or no oak. Bright zesty Burgundians turned my head. But lately, I must confess, I’ve missed the comfort of those big shouldered, richer wines. The cooler temperatures certainly play a role in that. If I’m in the mood for a white, I want to be warmed, nurtured - coddled even. Last night was one of those nights.
I found myself in the mood for a rich, creamy chardonnay with just a bit of butter. Stop cringing. I’m not referring to that movie popcorn, processed butter that too many California chardonnays seem to be soaked in, but just a cozy touch, enough to warm me and take off the chill.
So, we opened an old favorite that my husband picked up recently at Binney’s, J. Lohr Arroyo Seco Chardonnay, (2010.) I really liked it a few years ago when we visited the vineyard, but hadn’t enjoyed it in a while. It was precisely what I needed. The subtle grapefruit top note was refreshing, but then her creaminess eased in, emboldened by just the right amount of oak. A little lemon poked its way into the mix as well.
The grapes are grown in the cool Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County, CA. This wine suits me just fine as a cocktail, but it pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, the following, from Real Simple magazine, is one of my favorites, Chicken Sautéed with Apples. Made with dijion mustard, onions, garlic, thyme and apple juice, it cooks up into a gently satisfying meal. The wine will celebrate the baked apple in the dish and the meal will deepen the chardonnay’s flavor profile.
Do I still rendezvous with crispier, more subtle chardonnays? To be sure. But since fickleness is encouraged in the wine loving world, I can still curl up with my big bold pals when the mood strikes.
I found myself in the mood for a rich, creamy chardonnay with just a bit of butter. Stop cringing. I’m not referring to that movie popcorn, processed butter that too many California chardonnays seem to be soaked in, but just a cozy touch, enough to warm me and take off the chill.
So, we opened an old favorite that my husband picked up recently at Binney’s, J. Lohr Arroyo Seco Chardonnay, (2010.) I really liked it a few years ago when we visited the vineyard, but hadn’t enjoyed it in a while. It was precisely what I needed. The subtle grapefruit top note was refreshing, but then her creaminess eased in, emboldened by just the right amount of oak. A little lemon poked its way into the mix as well.
The grapes are grown in the cool Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County, CA. This wine suits me just fine as a cocktail, but it pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, the following, from Real Simple magazine, is one of my favorites, Chicken Sautéed with Apples. Made with dijion mustard, onions, garlic, thyme and apple juice, it cooks up into a gently satisfying meal. The wine will celebrate the baked apple in the dish and the meal will deepen the chardonnay’s flavor profile.
Do I still rendezvous with crispier, more subtle chardonnays? To be sure. But since fickleness is encouraged in the wine loving world, I can still curl up with my big bold pals when the mood strikes.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Goldilocks was on to something…
Originially published on 2/5/10 at Rogerspark.com, A Good Pour
Okay, maybe serving time/ temperature is not the sexiest topic, but hang in here with me, dear neighbors, because boy can it make a difference in your wine tasting experience.
I was in the mood for a wine comparison the other night so David and I opened a Rioja and a Chianti Classico. Perhaps because we were getting a bit hungry for dinner, we began our note taking shortly after I opened the bottles. Now I know that ideally, wine should be given the chance to breathe, but like other habits you know are good for you, ( flossing, anyone?) I don’t do it every time.
Here’s what happened. Both wines were true to their varietal in style. The Rioja had mild aromas of cherry, raspberry and oak, the Chianti Classico shared the cherry and added rose petal, but nothing leapt out of the glass. The latter, not surprisingly, was more acidic, but with less body, highlighting the gentler, smoother mouth feel of the Rioja. Okay, that’s nice, two pleasant wines, true to type. Ho hum. We went through the tasting protocol, again. Were we missing something? Let’s sip some more water, cleanse our palates, we’re not getting what we should be from these wines. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away, but I thought they’d be more nuanced, more cohesive. Heck, I just thought they’d be better.
So, we left the wine in the glasses and went to start dinner. A half hour later we returned to pick one to have with the meal and tried them both again. Wow. The difference was startling. Both wines had clearly enjoyed their time basking languidly in the glass, just waiting for us to return and find them in their glory. I swear they were smirking. All the individual, formerly clunky notes we’d been carefully describing were now all harmonizing beautifully together, creating a singular expression of the varietals. They didn’t need to be formally decanted, they just needed to be poured into a glass, swirled a bit and left to do their magic.
Though theoretically, decanting is really only needed for red wines with bigger tannins, I was reminded once again that a bit of time out of the bottle does wonders for whatever is inside. It’s like those of here on the Third Coast in February, getting out of our confines helps us to blossom, too.
Saying that wine needs to breathe may sound pretentious, but it’s true. It’s all about getting the wine aerated so that it can unlock its full spectrum of aromas and flavors. But please note, simply opening the bottle won’t do the trick, the wine should at least be poured into a glass. The surface area of an opened bottle isn’t wide enough to get the party started.
So what about serving temperature? Tradition says that red wines are best served at room temperature, but that idea was born before room temperatures averaged around 70 degrees. A decent medium is 50 degrees, so if the bottle isn’t in a cellar, just let it chill in your refrigerator for 15-20 minutes before serving. White wines need some special handling here as well. They are frequently served way too cold. Many restaurants are guilty of this and it’s a shame because patrons can go away thinking that a wine was so-so or just plain bad when really, it was simply hunched up against the deep chill, its personality in lock down. 45°F is a good baseline temperature for white wines. So, practically speaking, if your wine is in the frig, take it out about a half hour before you want to drink it or if it’s at room temperature, pop it in the freezer for 30 minutes.
No matter what your level of investment, you want your wine to be enjoyed at its best. So this Valentine’s Day, as you try to stay warm and look cool, take a lesson from Goldilocks and shine that same attention to detail on your vino as well. Your sweetheart will thank you.
Okay, maybe serving time/ temperature is not the sexiest topic, but hang in here with me, dear neighbors, because boy can it make a difference in your wine tasting experience.
I was in the mood for a wine comparison the other night so David and I opened a Rioja and a Chianti Classico. Perhaps because we were getting a bit hungry for dinner, we began our note taking shortly after I opened the bottles. Now I know that ideally, wine should be given the chance to breathe, but like other habits you know are good for you, ( flossing, anyone?) I don’t do it every time.
Here’s what happened. Both wines were true to their varietal in style. The Rioja had mild aromas of cherry, raspberry and oak, the Chianti Classico shared the cherry and added rose petal, but nothing leapt out of the glass. The latter, not surprisingly, was more acidic, but with less body, highlighting the gentler, smoother mouth feel of the Rioja. Okay, that’s nice, two pleasant wines, true to type. Ho hum. We went through the tasting protocol, again. Were we missing something? Let’s sip some more water, cleanse our palates, we’re not getting what we should be from these wines. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away, but I thought they’d be more nuanced, more cohesive. Heck, I just thought they’d be better.
So, we left the wine in the glasses and went to start dinner. A half hour later we returned to pick one to have with the meal and tried them both again. Wow. The difference was startling. Both wines had clearly enjoyed their time basking languidly in the glass, just waiting for us to return and find them in their glory. I swear they were smirking. All the individual, formerly clunky notes we’d been carefully describing were now all harmonizing beautifully together, creating a singular expression of the varietals. They didn’t need to be formally decanted, they just needed to be poured into a glass, swirled a bit and left to do their magic.
Though theoretically, decanting is really only needed for red wines with bigger tannins, I was reminded once again that a bit of time out of the bottle does wonders for whatever is inside. It’s like those of here on the Third Coast in February, getting out of our confines helps us to blossom, too.
Saying that wine needs to breathe may sound pretentious, but it’s true. It’s all about getting the wine aerated so that it can unlock its full spectrum of aromas and flavors. But please note, simply opening the bottle won’t do the trick, the wine should at least be poured into a glass. The surface area of an opened bottle isn’t wide enough to get the party started.
So what about serving temperature? Tradition says that red wines are best served at room temperature, but that idea was born before room temperatures averaged around 70 degrees. A decent medium is 50 degrees, so if the bottle isn’t in a cellar, just let it chill in your refrigerator for 15-20 minutes before serving. White wines need some special handling here as well. They are frequently served way too cold. Many restaurants are guilty of this and it’s a shame because patrons can go away thinking that a wine was so-so or just plain bad when really, it was simply hunched up against the deep chill, its personality in lock down. 45°F is a good baseline temperature for white wines. So, practically speaking, if your wine is in the frig, take it out about a half hour before you want to drink it or if it’s at room temperature, pop it in the freezer for 30 minutes.
No matter what your level of investment, you want your wine to be enjoyed at its best. So this Valentine’s Day, as you try to stay warm and look cool, take a lesson from Goldilocks and shine that same attention to detail on your vino as well. Your sweetheart will thank you.
Pinot Noir -Why all the Fuss?
Originally posted to my column A Good Pour in Rogers Park
Pinot Noir…why all the fuss?
Impressionable, finicky, skittish beauty seeks patient, tender, skillful hands and a Goldilocks environment in which to flourish-not too hot, not too cold. Sound too high maintenance? Well, luckily for us, many intrepid winemakers think she’s worth the trouble and fear not, dear neighbors, she is.
Pinot Noir, a red wine grape used to make still and sparkling wines, is famously difficult to grow. Its very thin skin leaves it vulnerable to mishandling and prone to rotting in warmer climates. It balks at spring frosts since it’s an early bloomer and is choosy about just how much rain it needs and when. Producing pinot noir takes meticulous caretaking, but the end result will reflect all those careful decisions made in the vineyard and the winery. Talk about creative freedom! Vintners are able to truly express themselves and their land through this chameleon, for it reflects its terroir, or sense of place, like no other grape.
Terroir is one of my favorite words because there’s no exact translation, yet it evokes such feeling. Yes, it’s the combined effect that climate, soil and farming practices have on a given crop, but even as I type that I stiffen at how clinical that sounds. Maybe I can best describe it by veering off track a bit and telling you a quick story. (Stay with me.) Several years ago I made a pilgrimage of sorts to Santa Barbara County (before the movie Sideways threw a spotlight on the place ) to talk with winemakers and get a glimpse, close-up, of what it felt like to bring in a pinot noir harvest. I was standing in the Bien Nacido vineyard in the waning hours of an October afternoon talking with a man whose family had farmed that land for nine generations. The road we drove in on shared his last name. He was a farmer and a vintner and he carried himself with the quiet assurance of a man whose work satisfied him deeply. A delicious sense of rootedness warmed me.When I tasted his wine, a rich, fruity pinot with a creamy finish, I could swear that I tasted that land and all the accumulated wisdom and tender care that had gone into it’s cultivation. To me, that’s terroir.
Pinot Noir’s ancestral home in Burgundy has long been considered its ideal climate. Gentle morning sun coddles the vines on the eastern facing slopes of the famed Cote d’or region, allowing the grapes to avoid the bruising afternoon rays. But they have their problems, too. Unpredictable rain and harsh storms haunt the area and have at times, damaged valuable crops prior to harvest. Of course, the French aren’t the only ones making memorable pinot these days. Other notable areas include some cooler CA climes, including the Russian River Valley, Carneros, Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Lucia Highlands. Wines from the Willamette Valley in Oregon have many fans, as do the offerings from New Zealand.
By now you may be wondering, if you haven't yet had the pleasure, what it tastes like. Why all the fuss? Well, it’s almost as hard to describe as it is to grow, partly due to the many ways it can be crafted. But, in general, to give you a baseline, flavor associations include strawberry, red cherry, raspberry, violets and often earthy notes. The wine will be medium to full bodied, but have whisper light tannins and, if it’s a good one, a velvety finish that lasts awhile. Sophisticated and elegant are words that you’ll see attached to pinot noir, as opposed to the boldness and forthrightness of a cabernet sauvignon.
As with all wine and wine tasting, generalities abound, but I’ve found this one to be true more often than not. Some say that old world pinots, (think France, Italy, European countries) radiate an earthiness that is supported by subtle fruit, while new world wines (North America and the Southern Hemisphere) tend to deliver their fruit right up, front and center. Additionally, old world wines benefit from a healthy dose of decanting and really show their colors during a meal; new world pinots can often be delightful on their own as a cocktail. This is where you get to experiment and find out what you like. Do a side-by-side taste test and see if you can tell the difference and, more importantly, if you have a preference. It should always be about what you most enjoy, it’s your palate you have to please. And here’s another bonus- it’s one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. It makes a lovely companion to poultry, beef, fish or pork.
I think it’s a shame we can’t grow pinot noir right here in Rogers Park. Can you imagine the essence our terroir would bring to that wine? Lands cooled by the lake and infused with such diverse cultural backgrounds would surely yield a vibrant wine with just the right amount of berry fruit seamlessly blended with a warm inviting earthiness. Even Goldilocks would approve.
Pinot Noir…why all the fuss?
Impressionable, finicky, skittish beauty seeks patient, tender, skillful hands and a Goldilocks environment in which to flourish-not too hot, not too cold. Sound too high maintenance? Well, luckily for us, many intrepid winemakers think she’s worth the trouble and fear not, dear neighbors, she is.
Pinot Noir, a red wine grape used to make still and sparkling wines, is famously difficult to grow. Its very thin skin leaves it vulnerable to mishandling and prone to rotting in warmer climates. It balks at spring frosts since it’s an early bloomer and is choosy about just how much rain it needs and when. Producing pinot noir takes meticulous caretaking, but the end result will reflect all those careful decisions made in the vineyard and the winery. Talk about creative freedom! Vintners are able to truly express themselves and their land through this chameleon, for it reflects its terroir, or sense of place, like no other grape.
Terroir is one of my favorite words because there’s no exact translation, yet it evokes such feeling. Yes, it’s the combined effect that climate, soil and farming practices have on a given crop, but even as I type that I stiffen at how clinical that sounds. Maybe I can best describe it by veering off track a bit and telling you a quick story. (Stay with me.) Several years ago I made a pilgrimage of sorts to Santa Barbara County (before the movie Sideways threw a spotlight on the place ) to talk with winemakers and get a glimpse, close-up, of what it felt like to bring in a pinot noir harvest. I was standing in the Bien Nacido vineyard in the waning hours of an October afternoon talking with a man whose family had farmed that land for nine generations. The road we drove in on shared his last name. He was a farmer and a vintner and he carried himself with the quiet assurance of a man whose work satisfied him deeply. A delicious sense of rootedness warmed me.When I tasted his wine, a rich, fruity pinot with a creamy finish, I could swear that I tasted that land and all the accumulated wisdom and tender care that had gone into it’s cultivation. To me, that’s terroir.
Pinot Noir’s ancestral home in Burgundy has long been considered its ideal climate. Gentle morning sun coddles the vines on the eastern facing slopes of the famed Cote d’or region, allowing the grapes to avoid the bruising afternoon rays. But they have their problems, too. Unpredictable rain and harsh storms haunt the area and have at times, damaged valuable crops prior to harvest. Of course, the French aren’t the only ones making memorable pinot these days. Other notable areas include some cooler CA climes, including the Russian River Valley, Carneros, Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Lucia Highlands. Wines from the Willamette Valley in Oregon have many fans, as do the offerings from New Zealand.
By now you may be wondering, if you haven't yet had the pleasure, what it tastes like. Why all the fuss? Well, it’s almost as hard to describe as it is to grow, partly due to the many ways it can be crafted. But, in general, to give you a baseline, flavor associations include strawberry, red cherry, raspberry, violets and often earthy notes. The wine will be medium to full bodied, but have whisper light tannins and, if it’s a good one, a velvety finish that lasts awhile. Sophisticated and elegant are words that you’ll see attached to pinot noir, as opposed to the boldness and forthrightness of a cabernet sauvignon.
As with all wine and wine tasting, generalities abound, but I’ve found this one to be true more often than not. Some say that old world pinots, (think France, Italy, European countries) radiate an earthiness that is supported by subtle fruit, while new world wines (North America and the Southern Hemisphere) tend to deliver their fruit right up, front and center. Additionally, old world wines benefit from a healthy dose of decanting and really show their colors during a meal; new world pinots can often be delightful on their own as a cocktail. This is where you get to experiment and find out what you like. Do a side-by-side taste test and see if you can tell the difference and, more importantly, if you have a preference. It should always be about what you most enjoy, it’s your palate you have to please. And here’s another bonus- it’s one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. It makes a lovely companion to poultry, beef, fish or pork.
I think it’s a shame we can’t grow pinot noir right here in Rogers Park. Can you imagine the essence our terroir would bring to that wine? Lands cooled by the lake and infused with such diverse cultural backgrounds would surely yield a vibrant wine with just the right amount of berry fruit seamlessly blended with a warm inviting earthiness. Even Goldilocks would approve.
Monday, May 04, 2009
Exploring Rum’s Golden Side
This was one of a series for my column at www.Rogerspark.com
Close your eyes. Listen to the palm fronds swishing in the gentle breeze, punctuated by the occasional call of a nearby seagull. Sink your toes into the toasty sand and taste the faint trace of salt dancing in the air over the turquoise waters. If you’re like me, dear neighbors, all you need is a sailboat to get to your happy place, but for now, we’re going to be perched on a Caribbean beach about to enjoy one the area’s signature delights. You may be surprised that we’re not being served rum punch, typically made with light rum and fruit juices, but today our focus is going to be on the golden and premium varieties, the less widely known but richly complex branch of the rum family.
Golden rums are medium bodied and are often aged in wooden barrels. They range from deep gold to burnt amber and will tempt you with their fruity, spicy and sometimes even floral aromas. Let’s try one! Mount Gay, traditionally known as the world’s oldest rum producer, has been mixing magic on Barbados since at least 1703. Today on our island, they’re serving Mount Gay’s Eclipse Rum. We’ll stir in some cola, but some people like soda water. Take a healthy sip, letting the liquid gold bathe your entire tongue before you swallow. What did you taste? I got a hint of vanilla and smoke and a zing of spice. This rum was aged in white oak barrels from Kentucky that had been used for aging bourbon, then charred. What I like best about golden rums are their full flavors, which cola brings out nicely, but avoid using the diet variety, I think they interfere with the taste. If you like Crown Royal and Coke, you’ll probably enjoy this cocktail as well.
Rums have no universal style classification, so they are usually broken down by color. You may be more familiar with light (white, silver) rums that are generally sweet and spiced rums like Captain Morgan’s that are used as a base for cocktails. Unlike other spirits such as Cognac or Scotch, rum has no standard production method; the countries that make it each have their own laws and traditions.
Columbus brought sugar cane to the Americas in the late 1400s and Europeans were eager to harvest this coveted good for trade. The cane juice was boiled to form crystals and after those were extracted, a thick black liquid, molasses, remained. It was discovered that when that liquid was left out in the sun and mixed with water that it morphed into a spirit. The spirit was then distilled and aged, most often in oak, though some light rums today spend time in stainless steel. (Most rums are made with molasses, but some manufacturers such as those in the French West Indies make it from straight sugar cane juice.)
The history of rum is as colorful as Chicago politics. The first rum distillery in the U.S. was built in 1664 on what is now Staten Island and rum manufacturing became a booming business for colonial New England. The beverage was so popular that George Washington was adamant that a barrel of Barbados rum be served at his 1789 inauguration! Speaking of politics, rum was often used as a way to get votes. The outcomes of many elections rested on how much rum the candidates provided to the constituency. Hmm. (Would we be better able to stomach this parking meter price increase if Mayor Daly had issued copious amounts of rum to each neighborhood before making that sale?) One more fun fact. The British Navy issued a daily ration or “tot” of rum to its sailors, a centuries old practice that lasted until 1970.
Okay, let’s get back to what’s in the glass. Another way to explore rum’s character is to unwind with a premium rum. Sipping rums can have aromas of caramel and toast and hints of mellow spices. These spirits are smooth and complex and should be served neat (my favorite way), over ice or with the tiniest splash of water. You don’t want to dilute these beauties. David Meihaus of the Morseland Café has been introducing his customers to premium rums for the past five years and told me that “ once a rum ages past 10 years it goes to that same place that Armagnacs and Bourbons do, they develop a nice round quality.”
So, now that we’ve brought the story closer to home, I have a suggestion. On the next warm, balmy day (it’s coming) take a stroll to the beach at Loyola Park and gaze out at the lake. Soften your eyes and see if the waters don’t take on a jewel-like hue. Cock your ear to the breeze and hear the faint tinkling of steel drums. Meander back home, pour your favorite rum cocktail and be happy that we have our own slice of paradise right here.
Close your eyes. Listen to the palm fronds swishing in the gentle breeze, punctuated by the occasional call of a nearby seagull. Sink your toes into the toasty sand and taste the faint trace of salt dancing in the air over the turquoise waters. If you’re like me, dear neighbors, all you need is a sailboat to get to your happy place, but for now, we’re going to be perched on a Caribbean beach about to enjoy one the area’s signature delights. You may be surprised that we’re not being served rum punch, typically made with light rum and fruit juices, but today our focus is going to be on the golden and premium varieties, the less widely known but richly complex branch of the rum family.
Golden rums are medium bodied and are often aged in wooden barrels. They range from deep gold to burnt amber and will tempt you with their fruity, spicy and sometimes even floral aromas. Let’s try one! Mount Gay, traditionally known as the world’s oldest rum producer, has been mixing magic on Barbados since at least 1703. Today on our island, they’re serving Mount Gay’s Eclipse Rum. We’ll stir in some cola, but some people like soda water. Take a healthy sip, letting the liquid gold bathe your entire tongue before you swallow. What did you taste? I got a hint of vanilla and smoke and a zing of spice. This rum was aged in white oak barrels from Kentucky that had been used for aging bourbon, then charred. What I like best about golden rums are their full flavors, which cola brings out nicely, but avoid using the diet variety, I think they interfere with the taste. If you like Crown Royal and Coke, you’ll probably enjoy this cocktail as well.
Rums have no universal style classification, so they are usually broken down by color. You may be more familiar with light (white, silver) rums that are generally sweet and spiced rums like Captain Morgan’s that are used as a base for cocktails. Unlike other spirits such as Cognac or Scotch, rum has no standard production method; the countries that make it each have their own laws and traditions.
Columbus brought sugar cane to the Americas in the late 1400s and Europeans were eager to harvest this coveted good for trade. The cane juice was boiled to form crystals and after those were extracted, a thick black liquid, molasses, remained. It was discovered that when that liquid was left out in the sun and mixed with water that it morphed into a spirit. The spirit was then distilled and aged, most often in oak, though some light rums today spend time in stainless steel. (Most rums are made with molasses, but some manufacturers such as those in the French West Indies make it from straight sugar cane juice.)
The history of rum is as colorful as Chicago politics. The first rum distillery in the U.S. was built in 1664 on what is now Staten Island and rum manufacturing became a booming business for colonial New England. The beverage was so popular that George Washington was adamant that a barrel of Barbados rum be served at his 1789 inauguration! Speaking of politics, rum was often used as a way to get votes. The outcomes of many elections rested on how much rum the candidates provided to the constituency. Hmm. (Would we be better able to stomach this parking meter price increase if Mayor Daly had issued copious amounts of rum to each neighborhood before making that sale?) One more fun fact. The British Navy issued a daily ration or “tot” of rum to its sailors, a centuries old practice that lasted until 1970.
Okay, let’s get back to what’s in the glass. Another way to explore rum’s character is to unwind with a premium rum. Sipping rums can have aromas of caramel and toast and hints of mellow spices. These spirits are smooth and complex and should be served neat (my favorite way), over ice or with the tiniest splash of water. You don’t want to dilute these beauties. David Meihaus of the Morseland Café has been introducing his customers to premium rums for the past five years and told me that “ once a rum ages past 10 years it goes to that same place that Armagnacs and Bourbons do, they develop a nice round quality.”
So, now that we’ve brought the story closer to home, I have a suggestion. On the next warm, balmy day (it’s coming) take a stroll to the beach at Loyola Park and gaze out at the lake. Soften your eyes and see if the waters don’t take on a jewel-like hue. Cock your ear to the breeze and hear the faint tinkling of steel drums. Meander back home, pour your favorite rum cocktail and be happy that we have our own slice of paradise right here.
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